2013 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino

De "Monfortino" wordt alleen gemaakt in de beste jaargangen en is een selectie van de beste druiven uit de wijngaard. Na de oogst wordt dit deel ook apart gevinifieerd en minimaal 7 jaar op grote Sloveens eiken vaten bewaard. De Barolo Riserva Monfortino 2013 is inmiddels veilig gehuisvest in een fles na bijna 6 jaar in vaten en fles te hebben mogen rijpen. De wijn werd gebotteld in juni 2018  en komt pas rond november 2019 op de markt.  

Warme aroma's van pruimen, rozenblaadjes en kruiden met hints van sandelhout. Een beetje teer. Volle body, dicht centraal gehemelte met glorieus fruit en een fantastische afdronk. Zeer, zeer gepolijste en fijne tannines. Een geweldige Monfortino en hier gaan we verder geen woorden aan vuil maken. De Montfortino is de Chateau Petrus uit Piemonte. Extreem goed, schaars en met een haast onbeperkte levensuur. De 2013 heeft 98-100 punten gekregen van Parker en 99 punten van James Suckling

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De wijn past goed bij rood vlees (gegrild/geroosterd), lamsvlees, en wildgerechten.

Rating
(98 - 100)

Release Price
NA

Drink Date
2025 - 2055

Reviewed by
Monica Larner
Issue Date
29th Jun 2018
Source
237, The Wine Advocate

I've been closely following the 2013 Barolo Riserva Monfortino for a few years now with annual tastings of the wine from barrel at the Giacomo Conterno winery in Monforte d'Alba. The last time we saw this wine was in 2010, and I readily gave that edition a perfect 100-point score. Monfortino was not made in 2011 or 2012, so this is the next available vintage. We can expect a finished wine ready for commercial release at the tail end of 2019. My impression of the wine now (one year later from the last barrel tasting) is that it has firmed up significantly in terms of structure and backbone. You can almost hear the crunch as you bite into the fresh and fruity fiber. That unique Monfortino crunchiness makes me think we can safely extend the drinking window on this modern day Italian icon.

Two days before my scheduled annual tasting with Roberto Conterno, headlines in the Italian daily La Stampa broke the news that the maker of Monfortino had just purchased the 27-hectare Nervi property in the Gattinara appellation of Alto Piemonte. You can read more about this excellent chess move in the end-of-May interim issue, where I also review Nervi’s current vintages. Back in Monforte d’Alba, the soft-spoken Roberto Conterno hints at other big news to come. I asked if this might be new vineyard acquisitions in Barolo, but he wouldn’t say. But he did want to talk about (and taste) the treasures in his cellars. We can expect a lot of greatest to come from the Giacomo Conterno winery over the next few years. These are indeed exciting times for Roberto and his team. There are two vintages of precious Monfortino carefully evolving in botte: 2013 (to be released commercially in October of 2019) and the unexpected 2014. Monfortino was not made in the hot 2011 or 2012 vintages. It was last made in 2010 (I gave that vintage an enthusiastic 100 points). You may recall that bottle prices immediately climbed to nose-bleed heights, with some retailers reportedly selling their 2010 Barolo Riserva Monfortino for up to 1,200 euros a bottle. This caused a good amount of controversy and discussion within Italy, but it was seen as a milestone moment for many collectors outside of the country. I, for one, am happy to see that Italian wine can now reach the dizzying price heights of competitors in Bordeaux and Napa. Even though Monfortino will likely now and forever be priced beyond the means of most, I do think Roberto accomplished something very important with his stellar 2010 Monfortino that benefits Italian wine in the large scheme of things. One of the wines I tasted from botte this year is the 2015 Barolo Arione. Roberto asked me not to publish a review of this still non-existent wine, and for that reason, I will only report my impressions here without giving a score. Truthfully, it makes little sense to score this wine anyway since we are not yet sure where it will go. Will it be blended or will it stand alone? Roberto Conterno dropped more than a few hints that it could possibly end up in the 2015 Barolo Riserva Monfortino—if a 2015 Monfortino is made. As of this writing, no word has been given to either confirm or deny that Monfortino will be made in 2015. I want to be very careful with my wording because I appreciate how thoughtful and careful Roberto is when it comes to this iconic Barolo. The 2015 Arione fruit I tasted was in a closed phase, but it's very clear that the depth, power and potential is all there. So let's wait and see for now.

James Suckling - GIACOMO CONTERNO BAROLO MONFORTINO RISERVA 2013

Sunday, June 16, 2019